After external CO2 mixer, next stage of aquarium coffee table upgrade hid the heater.
Very good place is CO2 mixer made out of the inline water filter housing (see previous instructable since such a waste of volume (almost 2l) is only used for CO2 mixing (!)
Step 1: explained in more detail
i thought how to do this safely.
Finally I decided to buy a cheap thermostat with an outside sensor (cost around 11) and heating, replace the original heating with normal glass with a built in thermostat, and the heating inside CO2 mixer.
Why two thermostats?
The reason for this was security and flexibility.
Lets imagine the housing contains about 1.5-2 L of water and the heater inside is 100W.
Unless the water is flowing trough housing there is no problem. If you turn off the filter (or something gets stuck in the pipe, possibly a thousand reasons) and no water flows, the external thermostat will not know about the water temperature in the housing (because the sensor is in the tank) and heat will be generated until the water inside is boiling. Housing, seals, heating etc. could survive this accident, but if I can I wanted to prevent things like that. For this reason there are two thermostats, one (in the heater) set up slightly more than normal aquarium temperature (mine is 26-27 ° C, you can call a safety thermostat), and the second current thermostat for aquarium temperature (external one).
You don't really need an external thermostat but I wanted to adjust the temperature in the aquarium.
With heating only inside the CO2 mixer will be quite complicated (you have to remove the water and unscrew the housing, temperature, and again, screw it back again, fill with water, vent entire pipes ... only nightmare temperature e.g. 1 C Set degree). So it's up to you. If you are sure about temperature, the job will be less complicated than mine.
Step 2: materials and tools
The materials I used were:
1. Inline water filter housing (CO2 mixer) see my previous instructable
2nd external thermostat with outside sensor and heater (mine was with water level sensor, so I had to change it a bit)
3. Glass heater built with thermostat (in fact these days it's hard to find normal ones without a thermostat)
(4) silicone sealant
5. Drill with bits
Scissors, screwdrivers, etc ...
Tip:
In my setup, I replaced power plugs built by a switch. I recommend turning off the heater before you start digging aquarium. Do not cut the corners, it could be dangerous.
Step 3: Asembling part1
First of all, I cut off the power plug from the thermostat 100W aquarium heater
Set up the temperature at 26-27C and put some sealant on thermostat knob and around seal (because when the filter is working on the pipe outlet, light pressure)
Note: even if you'll set the heater to 27 C, the temperature in the tank will be 1-2 degrees higher
Then I drilled a hole in the lid of the inline water filter (CO2 mixer ;-)), insert the heater cable tray the hole and hole filled with silicone from both sides (that was the hardest part of the job).
Now it was time to secure the position of the heater. I made cable connections and some plastic washers to keep the distance from the outlet pipe (see warning!).
On the other side of the outlet tube I got stuck in the thermometer the same way, only in one case, to control the temperature in the mixer (but this is really optional. I already had unwanted thermometers lying around which was replaced by electronic ones).
Then I screwed in the transparent lower part of the water filter and check heating position (see warning!).
The original heater has been cut off (or you can solder from circuit board inside thermostat) by external thermostat, and I've connected cables from new heater in place.
Warning: heating (in fact only heating part, see picture) must be completely isolated from water from each plastic housing, otherwise it will melt down plastic and even worse eventually could crack itself, water + electricity ... not a good combination.
Step 4: testing and
Is basically the end of the story. You have the system ready for use.
I put the sensor in the tank (hidden behind filter suction pipe with electronic thermometer sensor for accurate temperature measurement)
Run the casing through water, run filters filled and de-aerate pipes.
Quick check for all leaks. Everything is fine!
The mains has been connected and the heating switched on.
Step 5: summary
I'm very excited to have my tank as clean as possible in terms of technical equipment. Right now I only have inlet / outlet pipes from canister filters and that's obviously at least and - and pipes are colored (black background, black pipes for example), the pipes will be almost imperceptible.
Next time drop checker to check the CO2 level in the tank.
Good luck!
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