DIY LED hood for a 20 gallon hexagon aquarium tank

 

I picked up a used 20 gallon hexagon aquarium tank off Craigslist for $ 5. This is the perfect size tank for my 2 white tree frogs. The tank came with a couple of heat lamps and dishes but didn't have one on top. White tree frogs like a larger tank and the tank needs good solid cover as well as good ventilation.

So I made my own hexagonal tank hood on top complete with LED lights.

ALWAYS BE SAFE! READ AND FOLLOW YOUR INSTRUCTIONS FOR YOUR DEVICE! I removed my table saw guard because I use a cross cut sled for a variety of projects. Also, nobody uses my saw either. NEVER OPERATE A TABLE SAW WITHOUT THE GUARD.  Read more about my 5 gallon fish tank article

Step 1: materials and tools

Tools

Table saw (with sledge saw)

Miter saws

Clamps (spring and small bar clamps)

With a bit of drilling for the Chicago screws

materials

I used 1/2 "plastic wrap material I took from a local plastics company scrap heap, I love" free ". (This stuff cuts nicely and is very rigid and waterproof).

2-2 "but hinges with 8 - Chicago screws

Cloth screen (that stuff in a window screen)

Poultry Fabric AKA Chicken Wire (This is wire screen with larger openings (1/4 "squares))

I also have a strand of LED lights for the hood.

Step 2: figuring out a design

I've been woodworking for a very long time now and this hexagon was a very challenging project.

I started this project (and didn't) 3 times before my fourth try. I even have a sketch-up model with very precise dimensions (this really helped a lot.)

The top is made of 1/2 "lightweight plastic cut in a front and back top with a standard but hinge attached with Chicago screws. I used Chicago screws because of the density of the plastic sheeting material. Its almost like a dense (but light) foam .

Cutting this hexagon is pretty tough. I managed to get this right in 2 of the 3 failed attempts and got it different each time. I can't believe a good process for doing this.

This one I have in two halves, a front lid and a back lid with a screed door screen in one half and poultry fabric in the other. I needed the poultry fabric on the back due to the UVB light the critters need. The screen door filter would filter too much of the light rays. And these are tree frogs and they climb. I had to leave out block and allow ventilation.

Step 3: cut the hexagon top

My material was junk. I think it was a sign from a cell phone shop.

I needed to cut the first straight edge with a "straight edge jig" it clamps the odd shape to the bar and the bar rides along the fence for the first cut. Next I removed the jig and flip board for the other side straight edge.

I roughly cut 2 pieces about 7-1 / 2 "wide and about 18" long (finished length is 17-1 / 4 ").

Next I set up the crosscut saw carriage at 30 degrees and made the first cut on the end of each lid.

Now I turned the boards over and installed a stop block. I roughly cut it, longer than necessary dimension and with a pair of more cuts, fine-tuned it to fit properly, then I cut the second lid to fit.

Step 4: cut the openings for the screen

Using a depth gauge, I scratched a mark on each corner where the distance meets. This is a visual reference stop.

I set up a 1/4 "straight something in my router and my fence 1-1 / 4" away from the bit set. Then with the router running, I put the lid panel in the bit. A finger mill would be safer or even a scroll saw would work for this, but I've got the best results this way.

I pushed the panel into the fence and stopped by my badge. This first cut was a rough cut. I pulled the fence closer for a second cut.

Once I have the openings for the ventilation I need to make a groove on the bottom of each cover plate rebate cutter. I installed a 1/4 "stop bit with stock in my router and cut a 1/4" X 1/4 "groove on the inside bottom of each panel. Next, I cut some scrap to 1/4" X 1/4 "fill the rabbet groove and help hold the screens in place.

Step 5: cut and install the screen

I cut a piece of the door canvas material with a couple of scissors, the first cut is the width. Put it next to see how it fits before bed. The picture doesn't show the screen very well but want to make the cuts as straight as possible. It looks weird when its crooked. As soon as I get it a good straight Cut and fit for the width of the joint opening I cut to adjust the length.

Next I cut 1/4 "X 1/4" scrap fillers to length. These fill the rebate groove with the screen sandwiched between the frames and fillers.

With the screen laying inside the fold, I used epoxy and brush, brush a generous amount into the fold groove on top of the screen. Then I placed the filler strip on top and pinned it tight for about 5 - 10 minutes until it hardens. I always glue scrap pieces together with each epoxy mixture to test and see how well it hardens before messing with the project for each glue meeting.

I hate working with epoxy!

Step 6: hinges and LEDs

These are standard butt hinges that I had lying around in the shop. I also had this little Chicago style aluminum that screws perfectly into the hinge holes.

With lid panels in place I put the two hinges in place and marked for drilling.

I marked and drilled one panel at a time. After the first panel was drilled, I put the hinges on it and marked and drilled the second panel.

I had to remove the top and tilt it down for the LED lights. These lights consist of 7 small plasic fittings attached by their connecting wires. I put them in place before screwing the fixings in place. I also had to drill a small hole on the back of the lid allowing the string to end to the inside of the tank.

I had to adjust the hinges a bit, but after a little tweaking, it fits, opens and glows very nicely.

Thanks for looking

Don't forget to vote :)